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Then I pulled the negative off the house batteries.Īt this point the positives are still hot but with no battery negatives connected its safe to remove the wires, although I still carefully avoid shorting anything. You don’t have to remove the seat.įor safety, I removed the Mercedes engine ground disconnect near the gas pedal. On my RV its under the passenger seat and easily accessible via a side panel.
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So in a case like that I could wait until I got on the highway at least where alterbator is more likely to run cooler.īut I haven’t smoked the Mercedes alternator yet so I didn’t get around to it this time.Īs it turns out, this is an extremely easy upgrade. For example when the batteries are nearly dead I am a bit sheepish about letting the alternator go all out at 90 amps which is above its recommended charge rate. I may add a switch later to turn off the relay. The activation or coil apparently doesn’t matter either, although I connected it the way I had seen on a photo on the Internet. Since its a relay it doesn’t matter which side you connect the big cables. The relay doesn’t come with any instructions. Time will tell I guess, but they are cheap enough that I bought a second to carry a spare. Supposedly the Cole Hersee 24213 12V 200A solenoid is more reliable. Many people report it only lasts a year or two. (Although sometimes it would).įrom posts on the internet I guessed that would be the White-Rodgers relay that LTV installs. (I count on the solar to top them off.) But in this case the alternator completely stopped charging.
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Its always a little unreliable on my Lithium batteries. Just like clockwork, after about two years of ownership I noticed my alternator stopped charging my batteries reliably.